Driving in Malawi can be exhausting

Face-to-face with people and road surfaces

On a usual bad Malawian tar road we had been taken over by a small truck. As usual the driver took over there, where it was really difficult. Simple and easy overtaking manoeuvre the locals don’t seem to like. And it ends as usual, as the driver couldn’t master neither the truck, the traffic situation nor the street conditions. He passed and moved back on our lane far too early and crashed with his back into our driver cabin. The noise was ear-battering, it sounded like complete crash of both vehicles. But we were lucky: the side-view mirror not only absorbed the smash but even did push the other truck a bit back, so that we didn’t get any further damage. Driving with a left hand driven vehicle in left hand traffic you definitely need the right hand side-view mirror, so that we absolutely needed a new mirror. And again we were lucky, that there was a licensed MAN garage nearby. They had a fairly new second-hand mirror and fit it in one day. We were really happy. Sorting out the claim settlement is another story and would go beyond the scope of our website. To cut it short: we had to collect the handwritten police report 2 days later at one of the many street police control posts – and pay for that. Then we had to bring that piece of paper to the main office near by the city. There it took them one day to type into the computer. We needed that official paper to claim it with the insurance of the drivers company. The company though didn’t know anything about the accident, but promised to hand it over to their insurance. So far so good. But up to now we didn’t see any money.

One day, we were camping at a nice location at Lake Malawi and fill our fresh water tank, as a bus driver approached us and asked for help.

His bus has broken through a cement bed with all four wheels. They were quite heavily digged into the ground thanks to the lengthy spoiling. All guest of the bus were desperate, as they didn’t see a way to get home. So we got Globi ready, mount our rope winch and pull the bus out of the cement and over the curbstone. The former bus parking looks like a bomb crater, but everybody is really happy – and that’s what counts. And luckily we are so cool, that nobody could see how proud of Globi and us we were.

On the main north-south-connection the M1 between Rumphi and Chiweta, shortly after the beautiful Japanese bridge all vehicles in front of us suddenly stopped. We park behind the last truck. Peter gets out and investigates what’s going on. Because of the heavy rainfalls the last few weeks the bridge over a river valley has been washed away. As an interim solution they filled up the valley with clay soil. Unfortunately the clay soil is far too soft, the vehicles sunk and got stucked. The bridge building management decides that they need coal stones (as there are coal mines nearby), but there is no diesel. And the guy who is responsible for the diesel order is in Mzuzu with his girlfriend. So it takes some hours until the diesel arrives and the machines can do their job. The crowd on both sides of the bridge is chaotic unstructured and not organised at all. After 6 hours the first truck can pass the dam, but the fourth already got stucked again in the soft soil. It took another hour to move him out of the mud. Again a few trucks can pass, but then again one of them sunk into the soil, but really dangerous, as he nearly slipped over the embankment into the river. The caterpillars saved this guy and his truck as well. So after eight hours waiting it was our turn to drive over the muddy dam. It was definitely an unpleasant feeling to driver over this unsecure pathway. When we met an overlander the other day, he told us, that the dam has been washed away again and that the military got the job to build a temporary bridge within the next 3 days. That was good to know as we have to go back the same way – it’s the only way back southwards. And indeed four days later we could drive over the brand new unsecured metal bridge.

It’s nine a clock in the morning and we are ready to leave Dedza. We noticed that the rain last night moistened the ground quite a bit. So we put in all differential locks and used the gear reduction. Globi moves, but not forward or backward: only downwards. All three axes are on the ground and the six wheels are spinning. With a lot of wood we can lift Globi with the help of our ATV lift and the alignment system so that the wheels are free. We put stones underneath the wheels and can drive half a meter. Then we have to do the same again for six wheels!!! During the fourth exercise one of the valves touched a stone and – the valve was gone. Now we have a flat tire, which is half covered in mudd and weighs 200 kilos. It was hard to be of good cheer in such a situation. But at least it didn’t rain. One of the local helper felt that Gabi was frustrated and so he soclaced her with the words: „Don’t lose hope, Madam“. So cute. It took us the entire day to dig out the wheel, to change it and to get off the acre. Without the tireless help of the people from the pottery we certainly would have needed some more days to get out. And luckily the rain only started again, when we placed all the tools back in the truck.

Carcass Crashes

While cutting branches Peter demonstrated his artistic skills. He had to lean out of the window in such an abnormal way, that the poor rib – squeezed between muscles and window – couldn’t withstand the pressure. The pain was impressive. At least the branch was cut and the entire journey the pain brought back the memories of this branchy moment.

During a simple little walk, equipped with good Swiss hiking shoes, Peter slipped on the wet ground and fell on a stone. Again intensive pain and a swollen knee for three months.

Sometimes the branches have to be cut as well also out of the cabin. Funny enough becoming older doesn’t mean becoming more agile. Anyway, Peter slipped and fell. He landed like a cat on his 4 extremities. The right toe heavily compressed and over time nicely colored, the right hand strongly compressed (or worse?). Carrying something or using the handbrake: impossible. The injuries in the face we do not comment here, they were just surficial.

Unforgettable are the excursions in the diversified landscape of Malawi. The trip with Ernstli from Chitimba to Livingstonia was sensational. The road was heavy and steep with stunning views over the Lake Malawi. For Ernstli it wasn’t difficult at all and for us pure fun. In the Lukwe lodge we had a drink and started an accident free walk to the waterfalls and the cave behind the falls.

The hike to the Mulanje Mountain with sunshine – which is remarkable – as well as the walk on the Zomba plateau with its Queen Mary and Haile Selassie viewpoints were impressive and will stay in our memories.

In Malawi we were quite lucky in terms of good weather conditions compared to some of our travel colleagues. Despite that fact we felt that we got enough rain.

After a long time travelling alone in Zambia and the first month in Malawi we met finally 6 friends in one go in Senga Bay. That was a great pleasure and we keep these wonderful moments in our hearts.